As we approach the new year, the world of skincare continues to brim with exciting possibilities and innovations. But it can also be super confusing to know what is legit and not-so-much. That’s why I’m here to guide you through the latest trends I’m seeing as a professional, and offering insights into what’s promising and what might not live up to the hype. So, let’s dive right in and explore the 2024 skincare landscape:
- Probiotic Skincare: Balancing the Microbiome
The concept of a balanced microbiome has gained significant attention in the wellness and beauty industries. Studies increasingly connect gut health to various health issues, including undesirable skin conditions. In fact, it’s becoming clearer that many skin conditions like acne, rosacea, psoriasis, hyperpigmentation, atopic dermatitis, and premature aging can be linked to gut health. This has given rise to the growing probiotic and microbiome-balancing industry, covering everything from oral supplements to topical cosmetics and creams. In the skincare world, this trend is reflected in probiotic, prebiotic, and postbiotic topical products that claim to support the skin’s microbiome. But can they match the effectiveness of oral probiotics?
In short, no. First, we have limited data on the skin’s microbiome. Current research indicates that each person’s skin microbiome is unique, and most topical products and cosmetics are unlikely to significantly alter its natural state. Additionally, as we approach the end of 2023, creating topical formulations that are both sterile, safe, and contain living microorganisms remains a challenge. This is why most skincare products claiming to contain probiotics actually include prebiotics or inactive probiotics. Probiotics are difficult to stabilize and have a limited impact on the skin at this stage.
Trend summary: Probiotic Skincare
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| Incorporating gut health practices and oral probiotics into your skincare strategy. | Using probiotic topical skincare products. |
- DIY & Homemade Skincare: Is it better?
A prevailing trend in skincare and beauty involves concerns about the safety and ethical responsibility associated with well-known brand name products. Many individuals are choosing “natural” or homemade alternatives over commercial options. While the clean beauty movement has contributed to these inaccurate musings, there’s still something undeniably appealing about picking up homemade products, like that delightful soap with rosemary sprigs from the local farmer’s market.
However, it’s important to recognize that DIY, homemade, or farm-fresh skincare may come with safety risks that surpass those of any over-the-counter (OTC) skincare brands. Can you be certain that your neighbor, Shirley, is preserving her homemade products correctly? What about potential ingredient contamination or product efficacy? While they may look and smell wonderful, are they truly delivering the intended results? After all, there’s a reason we’ve moved beyond the days of basic lye soap.
Some of the most reliable skincare products available are the ones thoughtfully and safely formulated by large companies. These companies possess the financial resources to thoroughly test their products and are subject to regulatory oversight. They also remain at the forefront of innovation and product development, surpassing the capabilities of most small businesses. This is why I generally advise caution when it comes to homemade or DIY skincare products—the risks rarely outweigh the potential benefits. Risks like skin irritation, allergic reactions, exacerbated skin conditions and even bacterial or fungal infection to say the least.
So if you’re drawn to the idea of crafting something at home or supporting local businesses, consider opting for fresh, organic produce from your nearby farmer for cooking, or maybe purchasing a piece of beautiful art. When it comes to what you put on your skin, it’s advisable to stick with established cosmetic companies that prioritize safety and efficacy.
Trend summary: DIY & Homemade Skincare
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| Nothing promising about this one, maybe in the 1800s, but not now. | Making your own skincare products or buying from a local artisan. |
- Sustainable Skincare: The Greener the Better
As global warming becomes an increasingly pressing issue, consumers are becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of their products and the efforts made by their favorite brands to reduce it. However, like any popular trend, sustainability has opened the door for some brands to engage in “greenwashing,” where they market themselves as more environmentally friendly than they genuinely are. It’s vital to recognize that every consumption, including skincare products, has an environmental impact. To make informed choices, it’s essential to dispel some of the biggest myths in the greenwashing space.
Myth #1: Natural, sustainable ingredients are better than synthetic ones
Harvesting natural ingredients can harm the environment and deplete natural resources. In contrast, synthetic ingredients, created in a controlled lab environment, can often be more environmentally friendly and safer than their natural counterparts.
Myth #2: Refillable products are better
While refillable containers may seem like an eco-conscious alternative to single-use ones, they can often amount to just larger containers that you still need to refill and eventually dispose of. Additionally, exposing skincare products to air and light can lead to instability issues. Instead, consider simplifying your skincare routine and buying only what you’ll use up, then dispose or recycle the products appropriately. Avoid purchasing things you will not use.
Myth #3: Clean products are more sustainable
The term “clean” in the beauty and skincare industry lacks a regulated definition, allowing brands to define it as they see fit. This leaves room for misleading marketing claims, making you believe that products with omitted ingredients or organic components are inherently more sustainable. Greenwashing often thrives on this ambiguity, so it’s crucial to stay well-informed and scrutinize marketing claims.
If you genuinely want to make a positive environmental impact, consider instead addressing larger sustainability practices in your daily life. Reduce your car and air travel, conserve water, minimize food waste, and consider planting a garden or trees in your backyard. Decreasing your electricity and gas consumption, eating seasonally, and even considering family planning can all have a far more significant effect on the environment than simply changing your skincare routine.
Trend summary: Sustainable Skincare
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| More synthetic, lab-grown ingredientsLess packaging, easy-to-recycle packagingLooking outside of skincare for sustainable practices | Refillable productsGreenwashing claimsProduct value based on omitted ingredient lists |
- “Skintoxing” or Skin Detoxing: Unraveling the Truth
The notion of a detox sounds appealing and beneficial, but over the past couple of decades, many brands have led us to believe that we are personally responsible for detoxifying our bodies. This has given rise to a substantial industry of detoxification products, including supplements, teas, and skincare practices that promise all-encompassing cleansing. However, the reality is that our bodies already possess remarkable natural detoxification mechanisms, which include our skin!
Another interpretation of “skintoxing” pertains to eliminating ingredients that are perceived as “toxic” by certain media opinions. This links back to the fear-mongering aspect of the clean beauty movement, which sometimes misrepresents specific ingredients as toxic when, in reality, their safety depends on the dosage. Remember, the dose makes the poison, and even water can be toxic in excessive amounts. Topical cosmetics are generally well-regulated worldwide, and there is often no need to fear skincare products. However, if you have concerns, I recommend exercising caution with local or handmade products, as these may lack rigorous regulation and quality standards.
Lastly, there is a perspective advocating for allowing our skin to “breathe” and embracing “skinamalism” as part of the skin detox process. This entails temporarily eliminating all beauty and skincare products to let the skin “reset.” This notion can be inaccurate and even lead to discomfort for some individuals. It’s crucial to understand that our skin does not “breathe” in the same way our lungs do. While it absorbs oxygen from the air and our blood, it can do so even with skincare products on. Most skincare products will eventually absorb or evaporate. The key concern is to maintain proper hydration to prevent water loss and inflammation. Therefore, the most effective way to support your skin’s natural detoxification is to maintain a consistent skincare routine tailored to your skin type and conditions, while also embracing a healthy lifestyle that safeguards your detox organs, including your lungs, kidneys, liver, colon, and, of course, your skin. Your skin’s health and natural detoxification processes are best served through a well-considered daily regimen and a holistic approach to overall well-being.
Trend summary: “Skintoxing” or Skin Detoxing
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| Sticking to a tailored skincare regimenTaking care of your health, especially your detox organs (Skin, Liver, Colon, Kidneys, Lungs, Lymphatic) | Omitting all skincareRelying on “clean beauty” products |
- Home Skincare Devices and Treatments: When to Trust the Professionals
At-home skincare devices offer convenience and potential cost savings, but not all of them are as effective as professional treatments. Some are also exorbitantly priced. Here are my key dos and don’ts for using in-home skincare devices. It’s essential to do your research and consult with skincare professionals if you decide to include these devices in your routine.
The Dos:
LED Masks and Panels: LED light therapy is a suitable option for homecare devices when the brand has a good reputation and offers quality products. Opt for devices with a larger surface area for more effective results. Prior to purchase, consult with your trusted esthetician to get their brand recommendations.
Ultrasonic/Sonophoresis: There are safe and effective ultrasonic devices available that can enhance the penetration of skincare ingredients, making them work more effectively. Due to numerous counterfeit manufacturers, seek a recommendation from your esthetician before making a choice.
Cryotherapy/Heat Therapy: Depending on your skin conditions and goals, heat and cold therapy devices can accelerate your skincare results. You can also explore using household items like refrigerated spoons or heating pads. Discuss with your esthetician to determine the best options for your skin and how to incorporate them into your routine.
The Don’ts:
The devices and treatments mentioned below can be dangerous or harmful if attempted without professional guidance. Furthermore, without a comprehensive understanding of how to integrate them into your unique skincare routine, it’s best to leave these to your esthetician or dermatologist. Don’t say I didn’t warn you!
Trend summary: Home Skincare Devices/Treatments
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| LED masks and panels (not the wands!)Ultrasonic/sonophoresisCryotherapy/heat therapy | High FrequencyMicrocurrentMicroneedlingChemical PeelsDermaplaningLaserRadio FrequencySteamers |
- Beauty Supplements: Unveiling the Truth
The concept of improving your skin from the inside out with supplements and powders is undeniably appealing. Some ingredients, such as oral probiotics and specific vitamins and minerals, have solid scientific support. However, many ingredients like collagen, biotin, and various nutrients lack robust evidence to back their skin-related claims. In my experience, maintaining a well-balanced diet rich in colorful fruits and vegetables is the ultimate “supplement” for radiant skin.
If you genuinely require nutrient supplementation, I strongly recommend consulting with your doctor to identify any deficiencies or imbalances that may necessitate supplementation. It’s essential to approach with caution any supplement promising a healthier complexion or anti-aging benefits, as such claims are often rooted in marketing rather than scientific validation.
Below, I’ve outlined the supplements that I find beneficial for overall skin health, but I emphasize the importance of consulting with a healthcare provider before introducing any new supplements into your daily regimen. The key to vibrant and healthy skin begins with informed choices and a holistic approach to wellness. Remember that what you put into your body plays a crucial role in your skin’s appearance and well-being.
Trend summary: Beauty Supplements
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| Vitamin D3 (in oil)Omega-3ZincVitamin CProbioticsFiberAnything you’re deficient | Collagen powders, waters or supplementsBiotin or hair growth vitaminsSkin “vitamins” |
- Celebrity Product Lines: Worth the hype?
Celebrity skincare lines often generate buzz, because, who doesn’t want to have skin and hair like [insert celebrity name here.] But as celebrities continue to diversify their portfolios, we’re going to see more and more new lines of skin, haircare and beauty products touting these famous names. And while I’m sure they are putting decent products on the marketplace, I have to usually question whether or not there is anything that innovative or effective about these types of products. You are, in most cases, buying their name brand, which may or may not have anything to do with the scientific formulation of their products. Therefore it’s essential to scrutinize the products for their ingredients and efficacy. Your skin deserves products that genuinely work, regardless of the name behind them.
Most celebrities will also typically use the same private label labs and formulators that are making your other drugstore or premium products. Follow the supply chain and you’ll get a clearer view. My biggest recommendation is to try their products if you are interested, and then evaluate them like you would any other product.
Trend summary: Celebrity Product Lines
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| I will usually shy away from ANY celebrity line because there name is most commonly their only selling point. I have yet to discover anything special about a celebrity line. | |
- Personalized Skincare: Is it really customized?
As we approach 2024, one notable trend is the rise of customized skincare. Although estheticians have long emphasized the significance of tailored skincare approaches, the beauty industry is now catching on to its importance. It’s crucial to recognize that genuine personalized skincare requires a thorough analysis of your individual skin needs. Be wary of products that claim to be personalized without comprehensive assessments and consultations with skincare professionals—especially automated bots, online quizzes, and AI programs. While these may seem fun and convenient compared to virtual or spa appointments with professionals, they often yield disappointing results.
Trend summary: Personalized Skincare
| It’s promising! | Don’t waste your time! |
| Any professional or brand that is offering in depth consultations or assessments. Licensed estheticians are trained in customizing the perfect ingredients and products for your unique skin. | Digital quizzes and other automated tools disguising themselves as “customized skincare solutions” are that customized. While algorithmic solutions are the future, there is still a time and place for human interaction for best results. |
Summary
In this dynamic world of skincare, education and research are your best allies. Always look for scientific evidence and consult with professionals when adopting new products or trends. Remember that what works best for your skin may not be the same as what works for someone else. Make choices that align with your individual needs and preferences. And remember that trends are typically just a creative way of marketing existing technologies or thought processes – try not to blindly jump on the bandwagon.
